Jil Sander collection creates light from darkness as designers Lucie and Luke Meier leave the brand

MILAN (AP) — The latest Jil Sander collection featured shimmering surfaces that cut dramatically against the darkened runway on the second day of Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday, an effect that creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier said “turns darkness … into light.”

Hours after the show, brand owner OTB Group announced that it would be the creative husband-and-wife team’s last after eight years building on the brand’s legacy of minimalism. A release said the parting was mutual.

Femininity subverted

In what turned out to be their final word at Jil Sander, the designers subverted all things feminine with edgy details.

Frocks and outerwear created from long, sequined fringe grabbed the light, while feathery details fluttered on wool, creating contrast and movement. Delicate bows decorated long sculptural dresses.

All this prettiness was grounded by punk details: half-kilts belted over garments and silver hardware, like safety-pin-like necklaces, chunky baubles hanging from belts and studded footwear.

Light from darkness

Delicate floral prints seemed to have been dipped in a dark wash for an ombre effect on coats, dresses and suits. The effect was mirrored in knitwear.

The color palette was mostly black, white and greys, with pops of bubble gum pink in a long fringe dress and leather ensembles in royal blue for him and red for her.

Trend watch

A pair of shearling fur coats, shearling detailing on a long, deep-slit dress attest that fur is making a comeback on Milan runways.

Fur and leather collars that close with a silver chain. Silver accents in general. Shiny surfaces, sequined fringe.