Marc Jacobs fills catwalk with black as Louis Vuitton announces he’s leaving

PARIS – What was likely fashion powerhouse Marc Jacobs’ last ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton looked like a show in mourning Wednesday — black, black and more black.

A dark fountain and a nightmarish carousel with inky horses were met with a universe of clothes in all black. Maids cleaned away dust from the steps of the disturbing set, which traced Jacobs’ influential 16-year reign at Vuitton.

Shortly after the show in Paris’ Louvre Museum ended, the visual metaphor was explained: French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced that Jacobs was stepping down as creative director of its flagship brand.

Jacobs, who is also the director of an eponymous brand, is one of the biggest names in the fashion industry. Under his tenure, Louis Vuitton became the most lucrative fashion house in the world, in part thanks to his creation of a ready-to-wear line.

LVMH, which owns the Louis Vuitton brand and an array of other luxury names purveying everything from jewelry to champagne, would not say who would replace Jacobs or what his next move would be.

From her front-row seat, U.S. Vogue editor Anna Wintour gave Jacobs an ovation at Wednesday’s show.

“Fashion needs rock stars, and they don’t come any starrier than Marc at Louis Vuitton,” she told The Associated Press in an email. “He has always understood that it is a house about travel, and every season he has taken us on incredible journeys with his spectacular shows — shows that made Vuitton a global phenomenon but always brought you back to the heart of Paris.”

On the Vuitton catwalk, models filed by in jet-black warrior-like feathered headdresses as they displayed Jacob’s 41 designs. The pieces used embroidered black tulle stockings, Eisenhower jackets embellished cabaret-style with large feathered shoulders, dark embroideries, smoking jackets and some 1940s baggy blue jeans.

The glimmering landscape was towered over by a huge clock whose arms, instead of going forward, went back in time. It was as if the designer was trying to look to the past — or even get some precious time back.

“We went back and used all the different bits of the sets of the past and made them black,” Jacobs explained backstage. He didn’t elaborate on his future plans or comment on reports that he’s focusing next on a possible public offering for the Marc Jacobs brand.

The clothes, too, went back in time. Floor-length, thick Edwardian dresses with large sleeves fused with black decorative corset details, evoking fashions of the 1900s and contrasting with the more revealing “showgirl” looks.

In the program notes, Jacobs enclosed an emotional message to LVMH’s CEO: “For… Bernard Arnault. All my love, always.”

But it was the standing ovation from Wintour that said the most. Such rare, visible acclaim from the powerful editor — to whom he partly dedicated the show — capped Jacobs’ tenure at Louis Vuitton.

Director Sofia Coppola and the Fanning sisters were among other notables at Wednesday’s show.

Glenda Bailey, the influential U.S. editor of Harper’s Bazaar, said the show was “an end of an era.”

“Watching the show was like seeing your life flash before your eyes, because there were so many memorable moments referenced,” she told The Associated Press, referring to touches like “Louis Vuitton” prints, corsetry shapes, high-collared sweeping silhouettes or large embroidered paillettes.

“Marc brought such incredible energy to Louis Vuitton and should really be celebrated for bringing that house to life, and creating the vision that someone else will now take forward,” Bailey added.

Bailey would not speculate on rumours that Jacobs would be replaced by designer Nicolas Ghesquiere, who left Balenciaga last November. But she said the new designer will have unique opportunities thanks to the financial power of the LVMH fashion house.

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Samantha Critchell in New York and Sarah DiLorenzo in Paris contributed to this report.

Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP