Dandyism, decadence and a taste of rebellion at Junya Watanabe’s vision of Paris

PARIS (AP) — A new kind of dandy took over Junya Watanabe’s runway on Friday — not the traditional gentleman, but a sharp-dressed rebel with a streak of punk at Paris Fashion Week.

Watanabe, the pioneering Japanese designer known for mixing classic tailoring with a wild, creative edge, unveiled a lineup of bold, offbeat looks at the Lycée Carnot. The show was sharp but rebellious, rich in history but full of energy. It wasn’t about looking back. It was an explosion of new ideas.

Watanabe has built his reputation by smashing the line between elegance and rebellion. This season, he didn’t just mix old and new, he turned history into a weapon. His spring men’s collection borrowed from the past — rich brocades, jacquards and a hint of Rococo flair — but reimagined them with a bold, punk attitude. Jackets worthy of Venetian nobility were paired with rugged workwear and raw denim, creating looks that felt both grand and streetwise.

The music followed the same energy, starting with a traditional piano piece breaking down into a thumping city beat. Classic style was pulled apart and rebuilt right on the runway. Some outfits showed off sharp, careful tailoring, but the order quickly fell away — seams went crooked, sashes trailed loose, wild patterns took over. Even the ties broke free, knotted multiple times in ways that broke from tradition.

Despite the wild mix of styles, the show was more than just patchwork. Watanabe was making a statement about taste itself — a constant tug-of-war between old ideas and breaking the rules. Familiar touches — a monk’s robe, the rooftops of Florence — were turned into clever fashion puzzles.

Throughout the collection, Watanabe’s eye for detail and contradiction remained. He’s known for boldly mixing sharp tailoring with street style, blending Japanese tradition with punk energy. This season, he sharpened that approach into clothes that were both smart and full of electricity, pieces that challenged the idea of what it means to dress well.

By the end, the dandy wasn’t just a gentleman —he was sharper, braver, both thinker and rebel.